Quality Assurance Procedure ( English version )

Oleh Irwan Ong, Egi Sopan, dan 2 lainnya di QA Center

Incoming Material:

1. Fabric:

(a) 100% inspection of Fabric is performed on all types of fabrics.

(b) Pass/Fail criteria is based on 4 point system.

(c) Only passed fabric is sent to the subcontractor.

(d) Minor defects are pointed out, which are later removed in the dyeing & cutting section.

(e) Major defective rolls/fabrics are immediately returned to the suppliers after complete inspection.

(f) Fabric lots are clearly marked and segregated.

(g) Lot approval is always taken from the QC/Merchandiser in charge.

(h) Record of Fabric Inspection (passed & rejected qty) is maintained in the specified register.

(i) Supplier Performance is also evaluated.

2. Trims and Closures (Accessories):

(a) As per AQL 2.5, qty is of the total quantity received.

(b) AQL 2.5 is used for acceptance criteria of Trims and Closures.

(c) Minimum 10 pcs are checked randomly (for Bar Codes min. 5 pcs will be checked).

(d) If minor defects are found, the criteria of acceptance of minor defects are 1 major defect is equal to 3 minor defects.

(e) In case excessive defects are noticed in a particular lot, the lot is rejected.

(f) Inspection is conducted against the specifications or approved sample.

(g) Record of Inspection is maintained in the incoming checking report.

(h) Supplier Performance is also evaluated.

3. Cartons Drop test (Carton strength/Transit strength)

(a) The height of the packed carton from the ground for drop test is selected, 24 inches and up to shoulder height.

(b) The shortage edge is selected first then medium then largest for drop test.

(c) The carton is dropped from the corner edge.

(d) Carton damage & damage of packaging are checked.

(e) The responsibility of Drop test is under packaging/ finishing in charge.

4. Semi Finished Goods

(i) AQL 2.5 is followed for initial inspection of goods received.

100% inspection of semi finished goods is performed on all types of products.

(iii) Only passed Pcs are sent to the Packing/Finishing Section.

Minor defects are pointed, which are later removed in the Finishing section.

Major defective Pcs are immediately returned to the suppliers after inspection.

All lots are clearly marked and segregated.

Lot approval is always taken by the Production in charge.

Record of goods Inspection (passed & rejected qty) is maintained in the specified register.

Supplier/sub-contractor Performance is also evaluated

II Process Quality Control

5. Field Inspection

In this, the Field inspector goes to the Fabric checking area at Nimri (production area) of the Sub contractors and carries out inspection as per the laid down standards. For non standard products, sample is carried by the field inspector and documents & his report is filled in the Field inspection Form. He also advises the vendor for corrective and preventive action to ensure improvements in the products.

6. Inline Inspection

(a) In process, Quality Control is carried out by Independent QC at all stages of Production and is reported in the specified format.

(b) AQL 2.5 based inspection of all incoming goods is done.

Inline inspection is carried out for all products by randomly selecting the products (20, in case the qty is less than 500 & 5% if qty is more than 500 Pcs) by the inline QC in the initial stage of production and documents his report in the Inline Inspection Form.

(c) 100% Inspection (Finishing & Checking):

All products undergo 100% inspection as per the approved sample. Rejected products are immediately segregated. Daily checking reports are forwarded and rejected product is recorded as per the rejection report.

(d) Final Random Inspection:

Product is not released or delivery is not preceded until the planned arrangements are satisfactorily completed and is approved by relevant authorized person, where applicable by the customer, Evidence of conformity with acceptance criteria is maintained. Records indicate the authorization for the release of the products. Final AQL 2.5, G II based Quality Audit is performed by the Quality In charge as per the Buyer’s Requirements.

All records are maintained in specified formats

7. Agent / Buyers Inspection:

If required the goods are inspected by outside agencies like buying house, buyers as per AQL 4.0 or AQL 2.5.

III. Lab testing:

a. Lab test is conducted for all Processing activities. In process Quality Control is carried out by Independent Lab (Nimri) which is segregated from the production and reported in the specified format.

Incoming material is checked as per the given specifications.

All color fastness testing is checked as per the required minimum standards.

Testing is performed on both yarn Dyed & Piece dyed fabrics.

All testing results are recorded in specified formats.

Following tests are performed in the lab:

1. Colorfastness to Crocking / Rubbing

2. Colorfastness to washing/Laundering

3. Shade Matching

4. GSM - Weight

5. Shrinkage

6. Yarn count

7. GSM

Testing by Customer Certified Lab

If required the samples will go for testing to customer certified labs for different tests required by the buyer.

Information and Specification Flow

(i) A technical file is maintained by the QA-Head, who circulates the relevant information to the concerned departments.

(ii) Factory is provided with all the relevant information and the approved sample.

(iii) Inspection Reports for all orders are reviewed by respective merchandiser before dispatch of the goods.

Equipment Calibration

(i) Measuring Tapes: All measuring Tapes are numbered and calibrated at an interval of three months with the Master Tape, which is obtained from an independent agency. Numbered measuring Tapes are issued to the checkers.

(ii) Weighing Machine: approved supplier performs the weighing machine calibration on an annual basis.

(iii) Barcode Scanner

(iv) Needle Detector

Other important issues

(i) All purchasing is centralized and all purchase orders are mention in the required specifications.

(ii) A separate job order is issued to Sub-contractors and vendors listing all the requirements.

(iii) Separate Rejection Record is maintained

(iv) All the cutters issued in the factory are numbered and controlled.

All the incoming material (raw-material and finished goods) are stored in such a manner that “Received Reject” and “Passed” are segregated at each stage.

Customer Satisfaction

The organization has a monitoring system and procedure to ensure that the requirements of customer perception, when goods through required stages, are duly conforming during processing, for a desired result, and also to know whether requirements have been fully met and appreciated by the customer, as mentioned in the customer focus chapter of this

Quality Manual cum Procedure

1. All such complaints shall be received by Director/Manager (Production) through telephone/Fax/letters/E-mail.

2. All the Quality related complaints shall be forwarded to concerned section in charge.

3. GM (or Manager Production/QA) shall log the details of the complaints in the Customer Complaint register.

4. He shall contact the concerned persons of the customer.

5. Then he shall initiate corrective & preventive action accordingly.

6. In case of customers return defective material, material shall be disposed accordingly.

7. On the completion of the Corrective Action Report, a copy is sent to customer on demand on the letter head. Q.A. head shall update the Customer Complaints Register by marking the complaints as closed.

8. All such Quality & Dispatch related customer complaints shall be reported in the Management Review Meeting by the GM / Manager (Production).

Different Type of Defects

9.4.1 Fabric Defects:

• Holes

• Runs

• Snags or Pulled yarns

• Oil spots

• Misprint or faulty print registration

• Dyes spots and streaks

• Shading or dye lot deviation

• Conspicuous pilling

• Fabric weight greater than 5% below the contracted weight

• Bowed or biased fabric over 1/2" side to side

9.4.2 Processing/Washing Defects:

• Dye/Streak mark

• Bleeding within the product

• Shrinkage

• Patchiness/Spot visible on the surface of product

• Differences in optical Brightness/Overall appearance

• Change in Hand feel

• Fuzziness/Pills appearance on fabric surface

• Frosting (Color change).

9.4.3 Finishing Defects:

• Product does not look presentable.

• Loose threads.

• Hanging Threads.

• Spots and stains of a permanent nature or those that when removed leave a ring or other surface mark anywhere on the product.

9.4.4 Pressing Defects:

• Burn or scorch mark

• Shine marks on the surface of the product.

• Press marks resulting from the use of clamps or other holding device.

• Absence of pressing when seam is specified

• Failure to hang product an adequate time after pressing to allow proper drying and prior to packaging

• Poorly pressed products objectionably affecting appearance

• Front or back creases distinctly uneven in length and or improperly located

9.4.8 Seams & Stitch Defects

• Seams that are conspicuously twisted, excessively puckered or containing pleats

• Open seam or broken stitch

• Raw edges showing when they should be covered, outside and inside

• Seam finished that are not back-tacked

• Irregular or uneven top stitching in any focal area

• Major defects if conspicuously irregular

• Run-offs in top stitching

• Excessive seam take off from seam specifications(usually 1/8”)

• Excessively loose tensions(Such as seams permit “see though “to body when worn)

• Contrast stitching which is conspicuously uneven or not uniformly spaced on any focal area

• Part of the product caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

• Exposed drill holes

• All seams must be stitched with matching thread unless otherwise specified

9.4.8 Non Sewing Defects

• Hanging threads that are not removed from the product

• Losses threads clusters that are not removed.

• Plaids, Checks, Horizontal stripes / pattern not matching as specified

• Exposed drill holes

• Fusible interfacing must be compatible to garment without bubble or pucker

• No shading or dye lot deviation within the product

9.4.8 Hem Defects:

• Uneven hem

• Excessive puckered or twisted hem

• Must not exceed below hem of shell

9.4.8 Zipper Defects

• Any malfunction (i.e.. Automatic zipper locking)

• Tape shade does not closely match color specified with reference to approved sample

• Tapes stitched too loose or too tight resulting in excessive bulge on tape or placket when closed

• Wavy zippers that detract from appearance of product

• Irregular stitching that result in obviously crooked opening over zipper teeth

• Crooked or uneven placket or fly top stitching

• Aluminum, zippers should not be used(If specified other)

• Zipper not placed high enough in place causing gap top edge.

9.4.9 Eyelet/Hook & Eye defects

• Omitted or attached in wrong places

• Hooks and eyes not aligned when fastened

• All Eyelets on aligned with required direction

• Causing a bulge or twist at the point of closer

• Size appropriate to location and specification

• To be covered with paper while packing.

Textile Glossary

Terminology of Textile Words Frequently Used in SAVA

Words Description 1. Bleaching - Removing the natural color from textile materials.

2. Calendaring - Finishing the fabric with heated rollers under pressure.

3. Fabric & Thread Count - Thickness of yarn by weight and fineness.

4. Desizing - Removing sizing material e.g. Starch.

5. Grey Fabric - Unfinished & or unbleached fabric.

6. Laminating - Bonding a foam or sheet of plastic to a cloth.

7. Mercerizing - Finishing cotton with alkali for luster, etc

8. PH - A Measure for acidity and alkalinity. Where 1-6 is acidic, 7 is neutral and 8-14 is alkaline.

9. Reed marks - Crack(s) between warp ends.

10. Scouring - Cleaning of grey yarn or grey fabric before bleaching.

11. Stripping - Removing color from dyed material.

12. Stentering - Widthwise stretching finish.

13. Float - A Pattern thread traversed over more than one thread and not tied to the intermediate threads.

14. Yarn Defects -

       a) Prominently noticeable slub

       b) Prominently noticeable colored flecks

       c) Low twist, Doubled Yarn

15. Weaving Defects

      a) Adjacent missing ends or ends missing at a place across the width. (Warp Way)

      b) Prominently noticeable colored (other than chalk marks) or oily or soiled ends

      c) Float

      d) Crack – two or more full picks missing (Weft Way)

      e) Prominently noticeable weft bar or wrong weft due to the difference in count, twist,   color, shade

      f) Oily weft comprising of more than one pick stained with oil either fully or partially.

      g) Prominently noticeable broken ends, woven in bunch

17. Bleaching / Dyeing

      a) Spot defects via dye – stuff stain, dark patch, white spot, bleaching spot etc., Defects,

      b) Patchy, streaky uneven dyeing, dye bar, uneven bleaching, etc.

18. Printing Defects :

      a) Dyestuff stain

      b) Mis-print

      c) Absence of print

      d) Defect caused by hanging threads etc

      e) Incomplete repeat of the design

      f) Broken design or incomplete color scheme in the designs

      g) Over-lapping of the designs

      h) Color blotches due to bad starching

      i) Dark patches

      j) Material wrinkled when passing through the printing machine

19. Bad Selvedge:

     a) Distorted Selvedge - Not straight as a result of variations in the cloth width

     b) Uneven Selvedge - Varies in width due to variation in weft tension

20. Slubs: Short abnormally thick places of varying length in a yarn (due to spinning imperfection)

21. Temple Marks: Clearly noticeable holes, impressions, or marks adjacent to the selvedge of the fabrics.

22. Broken Picks: The pick is missing from the fabrics which may extend a few inches long.

23. Mis Picks: Filling yarn in the wrong shed of the warp. It is usually caused when the yarn breaks and the weaver re-starts the loom without matching the weft.

24. Thick Place: A pick bar having more picks than the normal.

25. Thin Places: A pick bar having less picks then the normal.

26. Wavy Cloth: Wavy appearance due to alternate thick and thin places.

27. Loose Ends: Long ends loose on the face of the fabric caused by long and short ends

of warp.

28. Broken Ends: One or more ends not weaving in the cloth.

29. Warp Streaks: An elongated faulty area of fabric running parallel to the warp threads and containing warp yarn which differs in material, count, twist, tension, color or shade from the adjacent normal warp.

30. Un even dyeing:

     a) A definite variation in shade throughout the piece at regular or irregular intervals caused

     b) Difference in count

     c) Difference in twist and

     d) Uneven absorption or penetration of dye

31. Crease: Permanent Fold mark in the fabric

32. Uneven shrinkage: A definite wavy warp wise condition in the fabric, preventing it from lying flat on a table.

33. Bad odor: Objectionable odor caused by the use of some finishing agent of an oily nature.

Sr. No. Component/Material   Parameters to be specified on PO   Details of incoming inspection               

    1. Grey Fabric   Fabric Width, Count construction, Shrinkage requirements, quantity mentioned on the PO. GSM wherever necessary delivery date   Fabric quality check by comparing with standard or approved sample, Fabric width, Total length (as per sample/drawing/photo or against specification sheet),

    2. Dyed Fabric   Colorfastness test requirements, Shrinkage requirements, Color name, Count, construction, fabric width/approved swatch Quantity mentioned on PO delivery date   Shade check by comparing with standard or approved sample, Fabric width, Total length (as per sample/drawing/photo or against specification sheet),   

3. Accessories   Design/Style, Dimensions, quality, colour as per reference sample, delivery date   Style.Design, Dimensions quality is checked against approved sample and the latter is checked visually 100%. 

  4. Made-up   Design,Style,Dimension,label placement, stitching requirements, mentioned on PO delivery date   Style.Design, Dimensions other specifications is checked against approved sample or against specification sheet   

5. Boxes/Inner/ Carton   Box size, Ply, Combination, Qty, Delivery date (as per item)   Box design size check as per item(should be neither tight nor loose) or as per ordered requirements 

  6. Labels/Barcodes   Label design as per sample Barcode scanning. Delivery date   Label design check as per approved sample or ordered requirements   

7. Packing materials   Quantity (rims/bundles/weight) Brand if specified in the annexure attached to this form. Delivery date.   Quantity check as per ordered requirements or as per the specification sheet.   

8. Thinner   As per the composition labeled on drums   Quantity check as per order requirement .